Arunachala is one of those places that stays with you long after you’ve left. The first time I heard about it, I was intrigued—but it wasn’t until I visited that I truly understood its pull. Arunachala isn’t just a hill in Tamil Nadu; it’s a presence, a feeling, and for many, a destination that calls them back to something deep within themselves. Nestled in the heart of Tiruvannamalai, this sacred mountain has been revered for centuries as a physical manifestation of Lord Shiva.
When you see Arunachala for the first time, it’s hard to describe the emotion it stirs. It’s rugged and unassuming in a way, but there’s a stillness about it that feels ancient, almost eternal. According to Hindu mythology, this is where Shiva appeared as a pillar of fire to settle a debate between Brahma and Vishnu, embodying the element of fire. Over time, Arunachala came to represent Shiva himself, not in his typical deity form but as the ultimate formless essence.
But it’s not just mythology that makes Arunachala special. The hill has a way of silencing your mind and pulling you into the present moment. People come here for all kinds of reasons—to pray, to meditate, to walk around the hill—but almost everyone seems to leave with a sense of peace. It’s like the hill works on you in ways you don’t even realise until later.
For me, learning about Ramana Maharshi’s connection to Arunachala was what first sparked my interest. He described the hill as his guru, saying it wasn’t just a mountain but a guide for anyone who sought the truth. The more I learned about Arunachala and Ramana Maharshi, the more I felt drawn to visit. It wasn’t just curiosity; it was something deeper, like the place itself was calling me. And when I finally stood before it, I understood its power.. The air felt different, the silence seemed fuller, and I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was standing in the presence of something far greater than myself.
The moment you set eyes on Arunachala Hill, you can sense there’s something special about it. I remember standing there, looking at its rocky slopes, and feeling this quiet, unshakable presence. It’s not the tallest mountain, nor is it lush or dramatic like some other famous peaks—but it doesn’t need to be.
In Hindu tradition, Arunachala is considered a physical embodiment of Shiva’s fire element. There’s a story in the Puranas that has always stayed with me: Brahma and Vishnu, two of the most powerful deities, were arguing over who was superior. To settle the dispute, Shiva appeared as a towering column of fire, stretching infinitely in both directions. Brahma tried to find its top, and Vishnu tried to find its base, but neither could. Eventually, they realised Shiva’s true nature was beyond comprehension. That fire, that infinite presence, is what Arunachala represents.
I remember walking around the hill for the first time, doing what’s called Girivalam—the 14-kilometre circumambulation of Arunachala. It’s a practice that’s been done for centuries, and it’s believed to be a way of connecting deeply with the energy of the hill. What struck me wasn’t just the beauty of the path, dotted with temples and shrines, but the sheer simplicity of the act. You don’t need elaborate rituals or offerings; you just walk. With each step, it felt like I was shedding something—some worry, some attachment, some part of myself that didn’t need to be there.
People from all walks of life come to Arunachala to do Girivalam. Some walk in silence, some chant mantras, and others just take in the atmosphere. I remember seeing families with small children, monks in saffron robes, and elderly pilgrims who looked like they had made this journey dozens of times.
Arunachala also has a way of making you feel deeply connected to nature. As I walked, I noticed the little things—the sound of the wind, the rustle of leaves, the way the sunlight hit the rocks. It’s like the mountain itself was alive, not in the way we usually think of life, but in a more profound sense. It’s the kind of silence that makes you feel like everything is exactly as it should be.
One of the most fascinating things about Arunachala is the belief that simply seeing the hill can have a transformative effect. There’s a saying that goes, “By seeing Arunachala, one becomes still.”
Arunachala’s significance is not limited to mythology; it is deeply rooted in Hindu scripture. The Tevaram, a collection of devotional hymns composed by Tamil Shaivite saints in the 6th to 9th centuries CE, praises Arunachala as a holy site of Shiva worship. These hymns, written by saints like Appar, Sambandar, and Sundarar, describe Arunachala as a place where seekers can attain liberation and dissolve their ego in the presence of the divine.
The hill also features prominently in the Arunachala Puranam, a Tamil text that elaborates on the mountain’s divine origins and its role as a spiritual centre. According to these texts, Arunachala is not just a geographical feature but a sacred power that draws devotees to it, offering them grace and guidance on their spiritual paths.
One of the most tangible aspects of Arunachala’s history is the Arunachaleswarar Temple, which stands at the base of the hill. This massive temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, has been a centre of worship for over a thousand years. While its exact origins are unclear, the temple’s earliest structures are believed to date back to the 9th century CE during the rule of the Chola dynasty. The Cholas were known for their architectural prowess and devotion to Shiva, and they significantly expanded the temple, adding ornate gopurams (towering gateways) and intricate carvings.
Later dynasties, including the Vijayanagara kings, continued to contribute to the temple’s grandeur, making it one of the largest and most revered Shiva temples in South India. The temple’s sprawling complex includes multiple halls, tanks, and shrines, all of which reflect the rich artistic and spiritual heritage of the region.
Arunachala has also played a crucial role in the Tamil Siddha tradition, a mystical spiritual path that emphasises the attainment of divine knowledge and liberation through meditation, yoga, and alchemical practices. Siddhas, or enlightened masters, often sought solitude in the caves and forests of Arunachala, using the hill’s energy to deepen their spiritual practices.
One of the most famous Siddhas associated with Arunachala is Seshadri Swamigal, a 19th-century saint who spent much of his life near the hill. He is remembered for his unwavering devotion to Arunachala and his ability to guide others toward self-realisation. His life and teachings added to the hill’s reputation as a haven for mystics and spiritual seekers.
For me, learning about Ramana Maharshi’s life was like uncovering a treasure chest of wisdom.. What resonates most with me is how natural and unassuming his spiritual journey was. Ramana wasn’t some distant figure shrouded in mysticism; he was a teenager when it all began, grappling with the same fears and questions we all face at some point.
The turning point in his life came when he was just sixteen. Imagine a teenager lying in his room, suddenly struck by the realisation that death is inevitable. Instead of panicking or distracting himself, he did something that blows my mind every time I think about it—he lay down, closed his eyes, and faced the idea of death head-on. He let go of his identity, his body, and everything he thought he was, only to discover that something deeper remained. That “something” was pure awareness, untouched by death or change.
Not long after this awakening, Ramana left his home and made his way to Arunachala. He didn’t tell anyone where he was going or why—he just knew he had to be there. And once he arrived, he never left. Arunachala wasn’t just a place for him; it was his teacher, his refuge, and his home.
He spent years meditating in caves on the hill, living off the bare minimum and speaking only when absolutely necessary. He wasn’t trying to start an ashram or gather followers—he was simply abiding in that silent awareness he had discovered. And yet, people couldn’t help but be drawn to him. They came with questions, seeking guidance, and Ramana answered them with such clarity and kindness.
For Ramana, Arunachala wasn’t just a sacred hill; it was the embodiment of grace itself. He often said that Arunachala had a unique way of pulling people inward, silencing their minds, and revealing the truth of who they really were. Ramana put it beautifully when he said, “Arunachala is the best and most reliable teacher. If you sit quietly near it, it will teach you everything you need to know.”
What I love most about Ramana’s story is how accessible it feels. He didn’t advocate complex rituals or philosophies. His message was simple: turn inward, be still, and you’ll find the answers you’re looking for. And for him, Arunachala was the ultimate support in that process.
The highlight of the ashram is its connection to Arunachala. From almost anywhere on the grounds, you can see the hill rising in the background. It’s a constant reminder of Ramana’s words: that Arunachala is the silent teacher, always present and always guiding. Many people who visit the ashram also take the opportunity to explore Arunachala itself. Some climb to the caves where Ramana meditated, while others walk around the hill as part of their spiritual practice.
From Ashram to The Arunachala Temple
One of the most memorable parts of my time in Tiruvannamalai was the walk from the Ramana Maharshi Ashram to Arunachala Temple. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is a massive, awe-inspiring structure. Its towering gopurams (ornate gateways) can be seen from a distance, and they seem to call you in.
The temple is bustling with activity. Priests perform rituals, devotees line up for blessings, and the air is filled with the scent of burning incense and flowers. But what stood out to me most was the energy of the place. There’s a palpable sense of devotion that seems to infuse every corner.
After spending time in the temple, I decided to walk to the ashram. The distance is only a couple of kilometres, but it feels symbolic, almost like a bridge between two worlds. The temple, with its rituals and traditions, represents devotion in its most vibrant, outward form. The ashram, on the other hand, is a place of inward reflection and silence. Walking from one to the other felt like a journey from the external to the internal, from seeking to simply being.
As I walked, Arunachala loomed in the background, its presence constant and unchanging. The path was lined with small shops, shrines, and pilgrims, each immersed in their own experience. I passed people performing Girivalam, circumambulating the hill as an act of devotion. Some were barefoot, their faces lit with quiet determination.
Reaching the ashram after the walk felt like arriving at a sanctuary. The stillness of the ashram contrasted sharply with the vibrant energy of the temple, and yet both felt deeply connected. It was as if the path between them wasn’t just a physical journey but a metaphor for the balance between action and stillness, effort and surrender.
Today, Arunachala remains a vibrant centre of spirituality, drawing millions of pilgrims and visitors each year. The tradition of Girivalam, or circumambulating the hill, is a practice that has endured for centuries. Devotees believe that walking around Arunachala, especially during the full moon, helps purify the mind and bring about spiritual transformation. The path is lined with shrines, banyan trees, and small temples, each adding to the hill’s sacred atmosphere.
Arunachala’s fame has also spread beyond India, thanks to the global reach of Ramana Maharshi’s teachings. Seekers from every corner of the world come to Tiruvannamalai to experience the hill’s unique energy and connect with its timeless wisdom. Whether they are drawn by mythology, history, or a personal sense of longing, Arunachala continues to offer solace and guidance to all who visit.
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